Ask - Face

Spots Away

June 18, 2009

Pigmentation is a hot topic at the moment. We asked Emma Hobson, training Manager for Dermalogica about it:

Are there some skin types more prone to pigmentation than others?

Not really skin types as such but some skin colours are more prone to pigmentation. Melasma is more prevalent in women with a darker skin colour and post inflammatory hyper pigmentation is also more prevalent in darker skins (this is pigmentation that results from inflammation).

After the age of 30-35 the number of pigment producing cells (ie melanocytes) begins to decline, and some of the remaining melanocytes begin to behave erratically. This results in an uneven mottled appearance – this is more obvious in lighter skin colours.

Age spots or liver spots (technical name is solar lentigo or plural lentigines) which occur on the face and hands in middle age (earlier if you have been a sunworshipper) are common in lighter skin and skin that tans easily – as many as 90% of people over 65 have at least one of these.

You’ve cured yourself from surface sunspots, or hormone related spots (say you’ve gone off the pill and treated skin), what is the likelihood for this problem to return from a different cause? 

If a skin is prone to pigmentation then it is likely that it will pigment from a number of triggers so yes, there is increased likelihood for pigmentation in susceptible people.

Often an individual prone to pigmentation will need to revisit a treatment programme. Usually not to the same degree that they had to originally – especially if they have been vigilant about wearing sunscreen and avoiding triggers etc, however “top up” brightening treatments done in a skin centre and possibly the use of some brightening home care products will usually ensure their skin tone stays more even.

Treating pigmentation seems to be more popular and more important to those from Asia. Why is this?

In Asia pigmentation has always been perceived as a sign of a field worker and the result of a labourer toiling in the rice paddies.. Obviously a member of the upper society is sheltered from this lifestyle and their skin remains like porcelain. Any signs of pigmentation are signs of a less affluent lifestyle. Hence pigmentation is not a desirable trait. Also a typical light olive Asian skin  is one that will hyper pigment very easily.

If I had got melasma from pregnancy, will it go away untreated or do I need to treat it with products and a course of insalon treatments?

Once hormonal fluctuations subside, such as the end of  pregnancy or discontinuance of hormonal supplements, or birth control pills, the hyper pigmentation often disappears.

However the condition may persist up to 5 years after the pregnancy or stopping the birth control pills. Unfortunately once melasma manifests in skin, chances of having it again increase.

Can you get pigmentation from perfumed body lotions as well as eau de toilette/parfum?

Hyper pigmentation would usually result from a photosensitive reaction to partum or eau de toilette ( or after shave for men) . Both artificial fragrances and  some essential oils can cause a photosensitive reaction.

Usually the concentration of fragrance used in a body lotion would not stimulate pigmentation. that is why we tend to see the prominent circles on the side of the neck when we have sprayed perfume there.

Tamsin xo

Dermalogica’s ChromaWhite regime is specifically formulated to target pigmentation, read our product review.